‘India is unquestionably making its way up the ladder in the world of chocolate’: Pastry chef Adriano Zumbo

On Instagram, Adriano Zumbo prefers to call himself ‘The Sweet Assassin’, but the well-known pastry chef is known many other names including the ‘Pâtissier of Pain’, and also ‘The Dark Lord of the Pastry Kitchen’ owing to his mind-blowingly crafty pastry creations. A popular TV host, and of course a master dessert whiz, Zumbo — who became a popular name in India following his much-dreaded appearances (ask the contestants about the croquembouche tower!) on the cooking reality show MasterChef Australia — started his journey when he was just 14 years old after discovering his passion for baking. Over the years, he has earned unparalleled fame, but he admits that learning has never stopped for him.
In an exclusive email interview with , he talks about his experiences over the year, his masterful creations, working with chocolates from around the world, India on the global chocolate map, and his famous desserts to try when in the country. Edited excerpts below:
Tell us about your love affair with all things sweet, especially pastry. And when and how did it start?
My love affair with pastries began when I was 14 years old. Growing up, I had to work every day after school in a bakery. I particularly loved baking cakes, as well as enjoying free candies and snacks, and I began to fall in love with pastries. Being a non-academic, I craved for a break from school, and it all fell into pastry and dessert. Taking risks, and pursuing a profession in baking at the age of 15 was perplexing. Relocating to Sydney, I began my apprenticeship (probation term), and in six months, I discovered my passion for baking pastries. My entire trip has been a terrific one, with new things being discovered even after so many years. It is one of those jobs that can take you anywhere if you can genuinely dig your teeth into it and fall in love with it. Cooking is difficult because there are so many things you want to accomplish; there is emotion, excitement, success, experiences, imagination, and all of those wonderful things. It clearly has the appearance of a loving connection. This is my love affair, and it is how I began.
Over the years you have earned yourself titles like ‘Pâtissier of Pain’, and you are known for your crafty pastries and Zumbarons. Is that what you had envisioned for yourself?
Yes. Over the years, while discovering different creations and experiences, I earned all these names. When I initially started pastry making, all I ever wanted was to be creative and be able to bake some amazing desserts. My main objective, then, was to open only one shop and make what I want. I never gave much thought to all the extra things that accrued through the years. In my opinion, a lot has changed in the past 15 years about what a chef does nowadays, including being a presenter or on a cooking TV show. At the start of my career, there were a handful of chefs performing home cooking shows and other things on TV, but that is about it. So, from where I am now to where I first envisioned it has been a wonderful journey. Predominantly, learning has never stopped for me and today I think it is an ever-evolving story.
As a pastry chef, you have worked with chocolates from around the world. Chocolates from which country/region would you rate the best/finest and why?
Without a doubt, now, India’s chocolates are one of the greatest in the world. However, we have prominent nations known for their chocolate, such as Italy, France, and Switzerland. For many years, chocolate has been a part of their culture since numerous companies and brands have evolved out of those areas, providing more exposure to their local cultures and tours. It fascinates me that the recently launched Fabelle Finesse chocolate in India is building a reputation for itself in the world of chocolate allowing people to enjoy the brilliance of the chocolate. This is noteworthy since we do not usually associate chocolate with India. It is incredible and exhilarating to see a country put itself on the map while creating some of the most cutting-edge technology.
Also, the new revolutionary Fabelle Finesse chocolate is very innovative. With the help of new technology that uses pressure during the refining process, the chocolate has been processed to produce particles that are seven to eight microns in size. I am honoured to be invited here to launch the unveiling of this chocolate, while also creating some signature desserts with Chef Ru Gianduja and the team.
Where would you say India stands when it comes to chocolate and in what way has the industry grown here?
I believe India is unquestionably making its way up the ladder in the world of chocolate. The few European nations that I previously mentioned still rank at the top because of their culture, masses, and exposure over time. However, India has established itself as a growing nation and a place to be remembered with all the development created, and being able to put India as one of the top chocolate producing countries in the world. It is particularly noteworthy for a country that is not typically known for its chocolate, breaking those boundaries, altering the status quo, and placing ninja on the map.
Besides chocolates, India is also known for its many sweet offerings. Which Indian sweet do you like the most and why?
Gulab jamun, kulfi, and phirni were definitely my favourite Indian sweets on this trip. The pachio and pumpkin seed barfi and the rose and fennel peda are also among my favourite Diwali treats.
Some common myths and misconceptions about chocolate that you would like to bust/clarify for your readers.
“Dark chocolate is beneficial for you,” may be just the classic fallacy you are looking for.
Tell us about pairing wine with chocolates. Some dos and don’ts.
Wine and chocolate pairing is perhaps not as simple as it appears. They complement each other nicely, but one must understand which wine corresponds with which chocolate. If you choose a stronger wine, something deeper flavoured, I normally like a lighter chocolate to balance it out, and vice versa. When sipping a lighter wine, I would choose something not too heavy, but that may truly offset and balance the flavour of the wine.
Too much chocolate (anything sweet) can be extremely harmful to health. How do you balance the two?
The best way to strike a balance between the two is to practise moderation in everything you do, including how much chocolate you eat and how much you experience. Use it as a luxury item that you continuously eat or as an indulgence. You are aware that it is something that is savoured at special occasions or at happy moments.
What is the best and the most challenging thing about working with chocolates?
The best thing about working with chocolate is that it is incredibly versatile, and it can be created into bread, confectionery, sweets, ice cream, gelato, and various amazing food items. It can also be made into any flavour combination, any texture, and artic works.
Your most memorable and unpleasant experience of working with chocolate?
I roll my experience with chocolate being amazing. There are some bad chocolates when you eat them; it is not a pleasant feeling. Worst experience in terms of invention was combining chocolate with an eggplant. It is a traditional Italian dessert, so I figured I’d give it a shot. It was a very bad experience and I never attempted to redo it to get it properly.
How important is the micron size of chocolate when working with them; what role does it play?
The melting experience of the chocolate’s fineness helps intensify the flavour, creaminess, and overall experience, making micron’s role extremely significant when it comes to the taste of chocolate on the palate and in the mouth. It also tempers the chocolate better than others giving you a better achievement for texting, fauna, creating textures and layers to go in a cake. It is an amazing chocolate that came across the world.
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